Yesterday's walk started early from the albergue The Last Stamp where I stayed while in Santiago. I stopped for coffee about 5 miles after this. And then headed out again. There was another pilgrim in front of me. We both misread the SIGNS!! As we walked through the beautiful woods it was established that he spoke NO English!! Solo Espanol. And well, I can listen all day long to other languages and will pick up on the conversation (perhaps), catch words and phrases, but I cannot speak anything but English. It is something I will work on but for now that is my condition.
After about 2.5 kilometers of wandering with no clear signs (yellow arrows/markers with shells) my friend Maxi kept asking if we'd go just a little farther to see...well after 2.5 kilometers I clearly indicated I was turning around. And he duly followed. We found our way back and sure enough we were on the wrong path. (SIGNS-they are important!!)
So Maxi and I walked along. I was going a long way. He indicated his knee was hurting. And that climbing hills was a problem. And declared me "mas fuerte" very strong especially on the hills. We walked 25 miles yesterday. He thanked me several times for being a companion on the way.
I found out that he was walking the camino in memory of his wife who had died two years ago, and for himself to show his ability/ strength/resolve. He had heart trouble. He had two bouts with cancer. And he said the camino was a very happy time for him. It showed him the world.
Today we only walked 15 miles. But after we got to the albergue and visited with others, cleaned up, and had eaten a bite. Maxi asked if I would look at his foot. I had no idea he was having so much trouble with his feet.
When I knelt at the feet of my new friend to tend to his blisters he had one on the bottom of his foot the size of two silver dollars put together. There he was Maxi. He Spanish, me American. He doesn't speak any English. But still we have walked two days together. And I must admit I am learning Spanish FAST. ANYWAY his feet smell bad. I think there may be infection. But I knelt, I said, "okay?" As I took betadine and then a needle and thread to his foot and I did what I could. It's what I had been doing to my feet since the nurse saw me in Burgos that seems to be working. He said, "Bueno." Which meant it was fine but more than that, that he trusted me. Once again it was humbling. When I finished he said, "Debra, muchas gracias!" And then kissed me on the top of my head.
I said "de nada" through my tears.
