Back on the Way

I started the day with joy and hope in my heart. And then our hospitallera woke us by singing and playing the guitar. Her voice was like that of an angel. Most of us were awake but it was beautiful and touching and a great way to start the day. 

Just before I left I sent a quick greetingsto my cycling friends riding TDR today to say Buen Camino!! Or have a great ride!!! I sent a pic of one of two brothers cycling the Camino that stayed in the same albergue. He commented that Arkansas has a reputation for great cycling events!!

I was one of the last ones to leave the albergue this morning. Alice asked me how my feet were. I told her much better and thank her for her hospitality. She took me in her arms and said, "vaya con Dios! You are so welcome." I thanked her again and said may God continue to bless you...she kissed me on each cheek and said, "go with God! Be well!"

I left with a spring in my step along with joy and hope in my heart. As I started out on the street looking for the shells and the yellow arrows which mark the way I knew that there might not be coffee until the next town which wasn't for 6 or 7 miles so I set my sights for that...I went up some steps I had not been up in my days in Burgos and turned the corner and there was an opened coffee shop! Hallelujah!! I ordered coffee and got a croissant to go which I might eat today or tomorrow.

 

But now I had a caffeine high, a spring in my step, as well as joy and hope in my heart!! I was unstoppable at least for the 7-9 miles I had planned on for today!! ;)

I mailed some of my postcards. Those of you who sent addresses yours will be written today. ;) then walked out of the city. I loved my walk today but I missed Joelle and Lilliane's singing...conversations with Camilla and Marie. I heard from them last night. They are well and several days ahead. But I still hope to see them again. 

As I left Burgos I was pretty sure I recognized a part of the movie The Way. When the gypsie escorts them out to the city limits...see what you think...if you've seen the movie...

Most recognizable perhaps!

As I walked along I met a young woman from Tulsa, Ok who had been walking with her father, he left this morning. She was going much farther and faster but it was fun to connect. Here is some of the scenery. 

And then I ran into one of my friends who was also struggling because of an injury and had stayed two days at the albergue in Burgos. Edigio. He is from Italy. He has a tendinitis issue. He sent his bags ahead and thought his only choices were Tardajos (7 miles) or Hornillos (13miles)  I told him about Rabe de las Calzadas last night which was only about 2 miles from Tardajos-a little better option, you get a little farther but don't have to walk through the Meseta at the end of one's walk for the day...we start walking through the Meseta after Rabe!

You don't know the Meseta?? Well you can google it. But I will give you this much... Meseta: Mesa: plateau...and:

 "The people of the Meseta have been defined as sober, and ascetic with perhaps a touch of visionary madness, in contrast to the exuberant Andalusians, the nostalgic Galicians or the practical Catalans.  It is in the Meseta that Don Quixote that wonderful and exasperating madman, was born. Here also the mystical St John of the Cross or the visionary and stubborn St Teresa of Avila find their place. But whether mad or mystical, these figures are, in their own way, adventurers, fighters, people of action, characteristics they share with the national hero of Castile, the Cid, or with so many of the “conquistadores” of America. http://www.spainthenandnow.com/spanish-travel/the-meseta/default_25.aspx

...so anyway met up with Edigio. Visited on the way and said I would see him in Rabe. When I got to Trabajos I saw the Slovenian women I had dinner with the night before. As I was walking into the shop I heard "DEBBIE!! Is that you!?" It was Collete from Melbourne. I met her over a week ago. She asked about my toe. She asked how I was. She said she was wondering about me and was so glad to see me!!! WOW!!!

Now I'm in Rabe. Edigio also made it. There are lots of peligrinos here. It's is a quaint and quiet village. Perfect. 

Local shop owner who has walked the Camino 

Edigio and me in front of the storyboard at shop...

Church and fountain in front of albergue. 

My feet are better and I'm looking forward to walking with joy, hope, patience, caffeine, a spring in my step, and expectation tomorrow!!

Buen  Camino for whatever you have planned!

Stubborn and bull-headed...but still tripping into...

As I was preparing to leave this morning and getting ready to "doctor" up my heels one of the other pilgrims looked at my feet and told me I should take another day. She said to ask Alice our hospitalerra to stay another night. But before I could she did it for me. Alice came and looked at me feet and agreed one more day was what I needed. So I have rested my poor feet again. 

I know that I am a stubborn, strong-willed, sometimes bullheaded person but I do listen to reason. Besides this was the third day and that's what the nurse said to take. 

So I strolled around Burgos a little more. I got out early because I had to pack my bag so that Alice could clean. Actually there were three of us staying another night because of injuries. As I stepped out into Calle de Calvo I saw this:

One of the things that I have tried to do is not get in a rut while I'm here so I try to go different places for meals or coffee or refreshments/snacks. So this was my breakfast of champions this morning. 

(Well shoot I've gone through two Nikon batteries and I'm giving up at this point. I had what equated to a large quiche, bread for two, a coffee con leche, and fresh squeezed orange juice (8-10 oz). 

And yes it was fresh squeezed orange juice! 

The whole thing cost a whopping $4.27 American dollars (€3.20 for those wanting to keep track of that.) and it was delicious 

So then I needed stamps (if you want a postcard from Spain send me your address in a message and maybe you will get one. 😈😇)...anyway I went to the tourist office to find out where the post office was and to ask about the bus schedule from Burgos just in case I needed some sort of transportation. Was weighing all the options. 

I saw another woman who had been in the albergue with me last night. She was still not well but decided yo move to a new one. She asked me to watch her bags for her and then help her get money from the atm. My college German came in handy. Woohoo!!

Then it was off on my errands. Post office and pharmacy for more supplies. As always there were interesting things to see along the way and more pictures to take. (Most are on my #%+ camera)

Fiat

Wait that's my cycling club the Mello Velo rest stop last year at the Wampoo Roadeo a ride to honor Marilyn Fulper!! From what I understand she had a special gift she shared with others. I never met her but feel I've gotten to know her through the love of others. 

Perhaps that's what community is about...

This girl couldn't choose between skates or a bike. Look closely!!!

Then it was back to wait for the albergue to open back up. And at noon we get get our instructions. Alice is so sweet but very direct. It is the place of the Good Shepherd. I love it. The name of the church I grew up in. 

I let all the pilgrims who had walked or been on their bikes today today shower first. It left me with little hot water but it was the right thing to do. One if the things I have learned to do while in France and Spain is turn off the water when it is not needed. It saves water for others and just plain doesn't waste water. In some places I have stayed the water and lights shut off on their own...incredible!!! (Joking of course but we can learn a lot!)

I rested a little more...doctored my wounds again and then headed out for dinner before pilgrim's mass which Alice described as a party...with bread and wine...I hope someday all of us may enjoy the party together!! I'll say more about that another time!! 

Suffice it to say that there is bread and wine served with every meal on the Camino...not in the churches but along the Way where there is community...and I think Jesus smiles!

Some women from Slovenia invited me to join them at the end of their meal. We had great conversation and community. Just what the Camino is about. Just what life is about...or should be...

Color FULL Day!!

Second full day in Burgos. I have declared this a day of Color. From the streets of brick to the painted buildings to the people's clothes. It's a day of color. 

I woke in the night drenched in sweat. Not sure if it was from keeping the COPPER metal blinds closed to keep the noise out or because I had a fever and it broke. But whatever I felt great this morning. And when I removed the WHITE bandages from my feet they were so much better just like the nurse said they would be. 

So I took my shower and decided on my SALMON shirt for the day. 

Of course had to wear something over it at first because it was only 50 degrees this morning. So I cleaned my wounds per my nurse, finished packing my backpack and headed out for the day's adventure. 

Already I knew it was going to be better I got my sandals on over the bandage. And only have them on one foot!! AND I could simply walk down the steps. Backpack on and I was not gingerly stepping. Awesome. 

I stopped for breakfast. Figured out where I wanted to stay tonight. It fills up quickly so needed to be there early and just sit and wait but I had time. And then planned my next steps. Also went by the tourist office to get info about where to get new shoes....taking pictures all the way. 

I got back to the Albergue at 10:30 and there were already 7 people ahead of me. I had been there at 9 but knew since it didn't open until noon I had plenty of time. I waited. Some people invited me to join them for coffee as we waited. The time passed quickly. Finally our host greeted us. 

Those who were sick or had medical papers were the first received. People encouraged me to the front. And tried to get my bag for me. I was in tears. There were others. I believe 6-8 in all. It was quite moving. 

As we made our way up the stairs I saw the shells. 

She explained to us that we are in a place of opposites. The last come first...those who are ill get first attention...and then she said welcome to a place where you are close to heaven...

After getting settled I went out searching for shoes. In this city of color. 

I stopped for lunch, took a few more photos:

and then headed across the river. Where I found the store but they were closed until 5 pm. So I went and  sat awhile again to watch people. Sylvia, who I met yesterday came by and sat with me. She is riding the Camino. She started in Frankfurt and has already put in more than 3000 kms. 

At 4:45 we headed back across the river. The man In the store directed me to a pair of shoes. And they were okay. But I asked to try something else. He said they would be to wide and too large because they only come in men's. We finally convinced him to let me try. And they seem to fit great with all the swelling. I also bought another pair of sandals, Tevas. :)  I'm not going to throw the other hiking shoes away just yet, just in case. But I feel a little better about my prospects. And they follow the theme of the day. COLOR!!!

I'm going to try to walk just 13 kms (about 10 miles) tomorrow. I walked 5 miles Wednesday and 6 today. And my feet are okay. I will wear sandals. And take many breaks. 

Thanks for all your good thoughts and prayers. 

Photos Day 13 set 2

A day of rest in Burgos more photos

Mary Magdalene 

One of the more interesting of the effigy. It was the only one I saw that was black. There were several though that had figures on there sides. Seems a much more comfy way to rest...no disrespect intended. 

Cloister...several of these...

And then after a bite to eat I walked to my hostal and ran into this fellow...

They have these statues all over. 

And then said goodnight to the storks outside my window. 

Still managed to walk 5 miles much shorter than the last few days but quite a nice day!! ;)

Photos-day 13 set 1

 A Day of Rest in Burgos. 

A view of the cathedral as I returned from the medical clinic. 

Sitting having lunch under the spires and there are many. 

She and her family are here ever day. From early morning to dusk...

The entrance...El Cid is buried in here. My photo didn't turn out. He's actually been moved twice since his original burial. 

One of the pulpits...

The ceiling above El Cid in one if the worship spaces. 

The sacristy...

Artwork in the cathedral...visit of the magi...I love Joseph's reaction!!!

Cuckoos

Yesterday as we made our way out of San Juan de Ortega I was thinking about my father and his birthday. He turned 92. It helped me to concentrate on something other than the fact that I hadn't been able to get my shoes on and I was going to walk 9-10 miles in Chakas (over rocks and gravel and asphalt). And yes even in my Chakas I couldn't wear the same sockwear 

(William be proud of the colorful statement!) because my right foot was so swollen. 

As we headed out of San Juan we entered the forest again. And the music started. Joelle sang a bit. But when she stopped the birds started. And we were headed up, up, up again. 

Then it got quiet. 

You could hear the click, click of the walkers sticks. The crunch, crunch of our shoes but otherwise we were silent...walking along...walking...

And then in the distance, "cuckoo, cuckoo". And a response. "cuckoo, cuckoo". Again. "cuckoo, cuckoo...cuckoo, cuckoo". 

I suddenly felt as if the birds were calling to us pilgrims. " Hey you!! You are...cuckoo, cuckoo". They wouldn't stop. It wasn't just one but several. You are crazy pilgrims. Especially you, with your mismatched socks and your sandals. You are climbing mountains. You are doing the impossible. You are cuckoo. Little do you know you are going to walk 15 miles not 9...Turn back now. 

And I thought of all those who have been told they are crazy as they struggled for peace or justice; freedom or equal rights. I thought of those who stand against oppression, against the bully; who do what is right when another path is easier. "Cuckoo, cuckoo". I thought about how someone tries to say they are wrong or crazy or discounts what they are doing. 

"Cuckoo, cuckoo" they sang to us all the way up the mountain. 

Yesterday was a tough day. It was 15 miles instead of 9. I said goodbye to my friends. I was going to be in the city alone. Maybe I was cuckoo. 

Yes, I had to say goodbye to my Camino companions for a time, go seek some medical attention, let my feet heal and get some rest. But I am still on the way, perhaps still hearing the voices of those who criticize, but only in the distance, for they cannot overwhelm the joy...of tripping into grace and bringing others with you. ;)

Photos Day 12 set 2

Forgot the map pic for today. 

What constituted the most serious roadblock for us this day. It probably stopped us for 10 minutes. They were in no hurry. Awww country life. 

Yep...uphill they go about the same speed...downhill the zoom past...hmmmmm

A church door in one of the little villages as we approached Burgos. 

Partial view of the magnificent, enormous cathedral in Burgos. 

Pilgrim tan

And the pic we took after I told my friends I was taking a day of rest in Burgos. It made us all sad and they told me I could ride the bus and catch up to them. 

My heart, body, mind, legs and spirit can keep going but my poor feet just need a day or two after 214 miles in 14 days. 

So I am gently and slowly exploring Burgos today. 

But as you can see I'm doing well!!